"I was in Northern California last week judging at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair wine competition, and I spent some of my time tracking down interesting producers whose wines I’d never tried. This racy, floral-scented 2011 Uvaggio Primitivo, a deliciously balanced red from the Lodi region with a taste of spice and juicy berries and layers of flavors, is one of my discoveries. I think it’s the ultimate gourmet pizza wine — soft and easy to drink, yet surprisingly complex for its well-under-$20 price.

Uvaggio’s opinionated winemaker, Jim Moore, is no wine newcomer. Years ago, he was a force behind the now-defunct La Famiglia di Robert Mondavi label that specialized in Italian varietals such as Sangiovese, as well as helping launch Luce, the Mondavi collaboration project with Tuscany’s Frescobaldi family. Moore made California’s first Vin Santo..."