"... Many of the more exciting wines coming from California these days are made in regions with less expensive real estate than Napa or Sonoma allow, using grapes from Albarino to Trousseau, Ribolla Gialla to Teroldego, vinified with more stylistic diversity than past generations...

.. Overall, Uvaggio wines show lower alcohol, more acidity, more appreciation for harmony than California is usually given credit for. And they are almost shockingly "varietally correct." The Vermentino tastes like a wine from Sardegna or Corsica, the dry Moscato has true ties to Friuli, the Primitivo echoes Puglia with bell-like clarity...

... See, there's that American thing. We make statements. Jim Moore doesn't speak beyond what he knows, but he's unafraid to commingle old-world materials with an innovative attempt to introduce something new into the culture.

It's morning in America."