Uvaggio's Jim Moore walks the Lodi talk

"One of Lodi's most original white wines today is made from the Vermentino grape by Jim Moore, owner and winemaker of Italian-inspired wines under the Uvaggio label.

"Vermentino," says Moore, "is the thinking man's Pinot Grigio." Like Pinot Grigio, it tends to be light, dry, and breezy; lemony tart without being puckery. Where Vermentino veers off-as in the 2009 Uvaggio Lodi Vermentino ($14)-is in its multifaceted fragrances, quite the opposite of the usually neutral Pinot Grigio: lavender, thyme, and lime blossom fragrances, with undertones of cantaloupe and nuances of wild honey and cream. On the palate, it's silkier than your typical Pinot Grigio, dry and lithe, the crisp qualities popping through the fleshy fruit, stony and, yes, lavendery sensations. A taste of the Mediterranean-grown in Lodi!"

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