California wine: why the independents rule

"Up until very recently, if you'd asked me to nominate my least favourite wine region, the one that I could rely on to provide the most disappointing bottles at the most unattractive prices, the answer would have been California....

... Zinfandel can be head-bangingly big and alcoholic, but in the hands of Jim Moore this red has more in common with the sweet-sour cherry and plum juiciness of southern Italy, where the variety is known as primitivo" — David Williams

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